What are
Fruit acids - also known as alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids - are widely used for their exfoliating and antioxidant properties.
These substances - natural or synthetic - are particularly suitable for peelings or scrubs, that is to say for those exfoliating treatments that promote the renewal of the epidermis, stimulating at the same time the production of collagen in the dermis.
Why they are used
Fruit acids are particularly suitable for oily skin, especially if asphyxiated, because they allow sebum to escape from the follicle more easily, thus avoiding the formation of pimples and blackheads (white and black spots). To this end, non-oily and delicate exfoliating products must be used; it is well known, in fact, that the sebaceous glands react to similar insults by increasing the production of sebum.
Even dry skin can benefit from fruit acids, provided, however, that they are applied to a well-hydrated skin (for example after a shower) and that they are combined, in post-treatment, with an oily hydronutrient fluid.
Action mechanism
As mentioned, fruit acids are used in cosmetics for peeling and scrubs, in order to promote cell renewal and renewal.
This effect is obtained thanks to the more or less intense removal of dead cells from the epidermal surface; in this way cell renewal is stimulated, giving the skin a more uniform and luminous appearance.
Fruit acids, in particular, are able to dissolve the bonds that unite dead cells with living cells, facilitating their removal. Furthermore, their very small size allows them to penetrate deeply, where they favor the repair of collagen and elastin fibers.
Products
On the market there are products containing fruit acids in different concentrations, ideal for daily treatment, for the periodic or for the specialized one. Commercial products contain fruit acids in concentrations normally between 5 and 10%, in order to be tolerated a little by all skin types and complexions; in professional ones, on the other hand, it can exceed 50%, with significantly lower pH values.
Results
In general - with the use of products containing fruit acids in low concentrations - the results are noticeable only after a couple of weeks of regular and daily use.
After this period you can perform a professional peeling or extend the treatment up to a month, then return to the normal moisturizers combined with exfoliating calls twice a week.
This frequency of treatment, generally valid for young skin, must be reduced to over 40 years, because after this age the cell turnover begins to slow down (too close treatments would not give the skin the time necessary to reconstitute its defenses, making it more susceptible to external aggressions).
Anti-wrinkle action
Thanks to their exfoliating properties, fruit acids can also be used as a remedy against the imperfections of the time.
In this regard, these substances are used to perform chemical peels with anti-wrinkle action and against skin spots.
Also in this area, fruit acids are used to eliminate damaged cells, stimulating cell renewal processes both at the level of the epidermis and at the level of the dermis. These actions allow to attenuate and eliminate the more or less deep wrinkles present on the face, even if, unfortunately, this effect is only temporary.
Among the main fruit acids used in anti-wrinkle chemical peels are mandelic acid and glycolic acid.
Mandelic acid
Mandelic acid owes its name to the German word "mendel" which means "almond". In fact, it is present in bitter almonds. It belongs to the group of alpha-hydroxy acids and is used in the treatment of more superficial wrinkles, since it exerts a delicate exfoliating action.
This action is so delicate that peelings based on mandelic acid can be performed even before sun exposure.
Glycolic acid
Glycolic acid is contained in sugar cane and also belongs to the group of alpha-hydroxy acids. Depending on the concentration to which it is used, it can carry out various activities. In fact, at very low concentrations (less than 10%), it has a predominantly moisturizing action.
At higher concentrations (higher than 15%), on the other hand, it exfoliates and exudes keratolytic, very useful for combating wrinkles and skin spots.
Its use can be carried out both in the dermatological field and in the cosmetic field.
Side effects
At the first applications, products based on fruit acids can cause slight redness, burning and pinching, but in general these effects disappear in a short time; if they last over or are particularly intense, the treatment should be suspended immediately.
The products for the exclusive use of professional beauticians or specialized doctors are far more aggressive; in this case the redness could last up to a couple of days and it is however very important to avoid exposing oneself directly to the sun in the following week.
Finally, given the high concentrations of fruit acids contained in them, products for the exclusive use of professionals and doctors - in addition to redness, burning and stinging - can also cause erythema, dermatitis and skin sensitization.
Warnings
Exceeding with the use of products containing alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, or applying too aggressive cosmetics, means causing an abnormal thinning of the skin - which is thus more fragile and exposed to external aggressions - to the point of causing skin microabrasions and capillary ruptures .
Furthermore, before using products containing fruit acids - regardless of the concentration in which they are present - it is good practice to test the product in advance on a small skin area, for example in the elbow cavity or under the chin, remembering that keratolytic activity it varies according to the pH and the active ingredients that characterize it (beta-hydroxy acids, for example, are more aggressive than alpha-hydroxy acids).
Finally, since fruit acids exfoliate the skin more or less deeply, after treatment with products that contain them, it is very important to avoid exposure to UV rays, both natural and artificial. In fact, following treatment with alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, the skin loses part of its barrier function, therefore, it will be much more sensitive and delicate. Even if you don't expose yourself to the sun, it's still important to protect your skin from the sun by using appropriate sunscreens.
