Codfish by R.Borgacci

What's this

What is cod?

Baccalà is the name of a food based on Atlantic cod or white cod - Gadidae family, Genus Gadus and morhua species - strongly dehydrated.

Not to be confused with stockfish, instead dried for cold ventilation - principle of convection - and solar radiation, the dried cod is dried by salting - osmotic effect of coarse salt. In both cases it is a case of preserved fish; nevertheless the two foods, apart from the production method, differ from each other due to their nutritional characteristics and the culinary processing system.

Rich in high biological value proteins, specific vitamins and minerals, the cod belongs to the fundamental group of foods. If not properly processed, it is not recommended in some diets. The massive presence of salt makes it, if not properly purified, contraindicated in the diet of those suffering from primary sodium sensitive hypertension. Note : the nutritional excess of sodium is also linked to the onset of other disorders and diseases.

The cod was one of the main exports of the North Atlantic and, as well as in the local kitchens, it has also spread to the gastronomic traditions of other countries - many of which overlook the Mediterranean, like Italy. In the Bel Paese, in fact, there are many regions that include cod among the ingredients of traditional local recipes.

However, it must be pointed out that, due to the strong demographic decline of Atlantic cod - caused by intensive fishing - the processing of cod began to affect different fish species. For this reason, today the word "baccalà" has become to some extent a generic name.

Synonyms

Other names of cod and stockfish, and therefore more generally of dried cod, are: haberdina (Middle English), bacalhau (salgado - Portuguese), bacalao salado (Spanish), bakailao (Basque), bacallà salat i assecat or bacallà salat ( Catalan), μπακαλιάρος, bakaliáros (Greek), Kabeljau (German), cabillaud (French), bakalar (Croatian), bakkeljauw (Dutch), makayabu (Central and Eastern Africa), kapakala (Finnish). Other names include ráktoguolli / goikeguolli (Sami), klipfisk / klippfisk / clipfish (Scandinavian), stokvis / klipvis (Dutch), saltfiskur (Icelandic), morue (French), saltfish (Anglophone Caribbean), bakaljaw (Maltese), labardan (Russian ).

Nutritional Properties

Rich in high biological value proteins, specific vitamins and minerals - such as those of the B complex, phosphorus and iron - the cod is a product that belongs to the fundamental group of foods.

It is apparently very caloric, although this energy value does not take into account the rehydration coefficient before cooking. Ready-to-cook cod should have the same calories as fresh cod.

Energy is supplied mainly by proteins, followed by a modest amount of lipids; carbohydrates are absent, as are dietary fiber. Peptides have a high biological value, ie they contain all the essential amino acids compared to the protein model of human beings. The lipid profile is also good; although the total amount of fatty acids is limited, the unsaturated polyunsaturated omega 3 (eicosapentaenoic acid EPA and docosahexaenoic DHA) prevail over the saturated ones. Due to their sensitivity to oxygen, free radicals, light and heat, the doubt remains that the long-term conservation of cod affects the final quantity of intact and active omega-3s in cod. Cholesterol is present but not too high.

The molecules most frequently responsible for food intolerance, ie lactose and gluten, are absent. However, it may contain traces of histamine. The concentration of purines is very high.

The concentration of water-soluble vitamins of group B, especially of thiamine (vit B1), riboflavin (vit B2), niacin (vit PP) and pyridoxine (vit B6) is remarkable. The level of the fat-soluble calciferol vitamin (vit D) should also be significant.

The levels of phosphorus, iron and potassium minerals must be considered excellent; when fresh, the cod also contains a lot of iodine - it is not clear how much of this is lost during dehydration and soaking. The amount of sodium is extremely high.

Diet

Cod in the diet

The cod is suitable for the hypocaloric slimming diet of the overweight subject. Due to the possible good concentration of omega 3, due to the acceptable content of cholesterol and negligible saturated fats, it also lends itself to the diet against dyslipidemia. It has no implications for type 2 diabetes mellitus.

However, it cannot be said, however, that the cod is suitable for all types of diets. If not properly soaked, due to the high residual sodium concentration, it becomes contraindicated in the case of primary sodium sensitive hypertension. Furthermore, a diet too rich in salt is associated, statistically, with various pathologies of the gastrointestinal system. It can damage the gastric mucosa, worsening gastritis and ulcer; in addition, if associated with excessive amounts of other unwanted molecules - such as nitrates and nitrites - excessive sodium levels correlate with an increased incidence of stomach and colon cancer.

The richness in essential amino acids makes it a suitable food for those who need a greater protein requirement, for example those under development, pregnant and lactating women, subjects in old age, malnourished people - also due to malabsorption - and sportsmen who practice very intense and prolonged activities.

The cod has no contraindications for celiac disease and lactose intolerance. It is possible that it should be excluded in case of histamine intolerance. All those who suffer from hyperuricemia should avoid putting it in the diet.

The B group vitamins play mainly the role of coenzymes; for this reason the cod can be considered a suitable food to support, in general, the cellular metabolism of all tissues. The hypothetical presence of vitamin D makes the fish useful for maintaining bone metabolism.

Iron is essential to the formation of hemoglobin and myoglobin, potentially deficient in anemic subjects; this is why cod is a food to be included in the preventive and curative diet in iron deficiency anemia. The cod contributes to reach the recommended ration of phosphorus contained in large quantities in the bones and in the phospholipids - present above all in the nerve cells. If it contained the same amount of iodine as fresh cod, this food would participate in the smooth functioning of the thyroid gland. It is not to be considered a typical source of potassium, but still contributes to increasing its levels in the diet.

The average portion of cod - still to be soaked - is 50 g (about 145 kcal).

Kitchen

Desalinate the cod

Before being cooked, the cod requires a preliminary rehydration and desalination step. This is done by immersing it in cold water for about 1-3 days, changing the water two or three times a day. If performed strictly in the refrigerator (3-4 ° C), this process can be extended up to a week, thus almost completely eliminating the salt from the meat of the fish.

Codfish in the kitchen and recipes from the world

In Europe, cod is cooked in many different ways. In the Nordic countries there are many recipes with potatoes and onions - cultivation products typical of these places - both stewed in casseroles, and floured and fried.

In France, the "brandade de morue" is a famous dish baked in the oven based on mashed potatoes and rehydrated cod, flavored with garlic and olive oil.

Portuguese cuisine boasts perhaps the widest variety of cod-based recipes. In Greece, the fried cod is served with skordalia - Salsa Mezes.

The cod is part of many European celebrations of the "Christmas Vigil", in particular the southern "Festa dei Sette Pesci", typically Italian-American. In our Bel Paese, the cod recipes differ in a multitude of regional and even local preparations; some classic examples are: Vicenza-style cod and Venetian-style cod from the Veneto region, Tuscan-style codfish from Tuscany, Neapolitan-style cod from the Campania region, etc.

In several islands of the West Indies, cod is the basis of a popular recipe called "salted fish". In Jamaica, the national dish is "ackee with salted fish". In Bermuda, the cod is served with potatoes, avocado, banana and boiled egg. In some regions of Mexico, it is fried with egg batter and stewed in red sauce, to be served at Christmas dinner.

Production

Production of cod

The production of cod could be summarized as follows:

1. Atlantic codfish fishing;
2. Gutting and beheading of fish. Note : this phase often takes place directly on board the boats;
3. Salting for drying. Note : this phase takes place instead on the ground;
4. Sale of whole or chopped fish, with or without central bone.

Fishing and ecosustainability of cod

Atlantic cod fishing has taken place, in modern times, especially with huge fishing boats that exploit the systems of large networks. These boats are equipped with radars, electronic navigation systems and sonar, in order to be able to easily identify the fish stalls - which, as is well known, have highly gregarious habits.

Intensive fishing, which began approximately in the mid-20th century, peaked between the late 1970s and the 1980s. In 1992 the catch of cod fell to 1% compared to the previous year, alerting the Canadian government that the levy was suspended for this species.

Before the collapse of the cod population, the cod originated exclusively from this fish species. Fortunately, since then the products sold as "cod" can derive from other similar fish, such as: pollock (genus Pollachius ), haddock or haddock ( Melanogrammus aeglefinus ), blue whiting or blue whiting ( Micromesistius poutassou ), ling or molva ( Molva molva ) and tusk or tusk ( Brosme brosme ).

Qualitative aspects of cod

In Norway five different types of cod were produced. The best was called "superior extra" (extra top). The "superior", "imperial", "universal" and "popular" followed in descending order. On the other hand, these names are no longer abundantly used, although some producers still concentrate on higher quality cod.

The "superior extra" is made only from cod caught with the line. The fish, caught only once a year - during spawning - is bled out alive before being beheaded. It is then gutted, filleted and salted. Even professional fishermen and leading connoisseurs value the fact that the fish is caught with the line, because if trapped in the net it dies even before being bled and, in addition to struggling to exhaustion, it tends to get scratches and bruises. The superior qualities are always salted while still fresh, while the cheaper ones can be subjected to preliminary freezing.

Furthermore, the low quality qualitative cod is salted by brine injection, while the best ones are dry salted. The "superior extra" is even dried twice, almost like Parma ham. Between the two drying sessions, the fish rests and the taste improves.

History

History of cod

The cod has been produced for over 400 years, although the stockfish was discovered by Europeans as early as the seventeenth century, at the time of the French patrols on the banks of Terranova offshore - when Jacques Cartier discovered the mouth of the San Lorenzo river. The places where the tradition of dried cod was born are Norway - where it is called "klippfisk", literally "reef fish" - Iceland, the Faroe Islands and Newfoundland.

Between the two, the most ancient workmanship is therefore that of the stockfish, produced by the local populations from immemorial times. The traditional method required that the cod be gutted and beheaded, were then exposed to natural drying, outdoors, on cliffs or other bare rock walls - thanks to the action of wind and sun.

The Europeans, on the other hand, who had to start processing fish on board boats and could not avail themselves of the same conditions, began to use coarse salt for drying, but only from the seventeenth century onwards - when Europe's least expensive salt Southern became available for the maritime nations of Northern Europe.

Subsequently, the cod became an essential element for international trade between the Old and New World, constituting a side of the so-called "triangular trade". Thus it spread throughout the Atlantic Ocean and became a traditional ingredient not only in the cuisine of Northern Europe, but also in the kitchens of the Mediterranean, West Africa, the Caribbean and Brazil.

In Catholic countries, the consumption of cod became fundamental; it is common to include it in the weekly diet and especially on Fridays, when you should not eat meat. The same applies to the period of Lent.

Did you know that ...

The processing of the stockfish was however abandoned and still remains today. On the other hand, the current procedure is slightly different; it takes place indoors, away from the sun and wind, replaced by electric heaters-air conditioners to control the working atmosphere.