beauty

Salicylic acid for a more beautiful skin

What is Salicylic Acid?

Main exponent of Beta-hydroxy acids, salicylic acid is a well-known exfoliating agent used in cosmetics to prepare scrubs or chemical peels.

If until a few years ago salicylic acid was exploited also in the medical field for its moderately antipyretic properties and for the mild anti-inflammatory effect, today, in therapy, it has left the scene because it is considered excessively irritating for gastric and esophageal mucosa.

Currently, the use of salicylic acid is therefore limited to the cosmetic and dermatological field: its marked keratolytic and smoothing virtues make the molecule very suitable for effectively combating mild to moderate papular-pustular acne. But the uses of salicylic acid are not simply limited to this treatment.

In the course of the article we will learn more about this powerful molecule with excellent exfoliating properties.

Chemical analysis

In chemistry, salicylic acid is called 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, identified by the brute formula C 7 H 6 O 3 .

The molecule derives from the enzymatic hydrolysis of salicin, salicoside glucoside extracted from willow ( Salix alba ). In nature, salicylic acid is found in numerous plants in the form of ester, particularly in the leaves of the gaulteria ( Gaultheria procumbens ).

Salicylic acid, available in the form of white crystalline powder or thin and colorless needles, has a taste that is at first sweetish, then acrid. Subjected to the solar light action, the molecule is altered in its natural color. In water, salicylic acid is slightly soluble, while it is very well solubilized in alcohol, ether, acetone and chloroform.

In addition to boasting keratolytic / exfoliating properties, salicylic acid is also used for its bacteriostatic, anti-mold and desiccant virtues.

Property

As mentioned, salicylic acid is used in cosmetics and dermatology for its keratolytic and smoothing properties .

When applied to the skin, in fact, salicylic acid exerts a powerful keratolytic action, since it is able to selectively break the protein chain of keratin, abundantly present in the corneocytes, thus decreasing the cohesive forces that unite these cells to each other other.

In this way the desquamation of hyperpigmented keratinocytes is promoted, while encouraging cell renewal.

Not exerting any effect on other proteins, salicylic acid is able to exfoliate and destroy only the cells of the stratum corneum: for this reason, the molecule is well tolerated by the underlying cells, clearly devoid of any trace of keratin.

In addition to its keratolytic and smoothing properties, salicylic acid also has interesting bacteriostatic and soothing properties : in fact, the substance quickly penetrates inflamed lesions excellently performing these functions, without causing obvious irritation phenomena.

Mode of use

The preparations - cosmetic or dermatological - that are based on salicylic acid must, of course, be used only and exclusively by topical means. In detail, the preparation (cosmetic or medicinal) should be applied only in the area affected by the disorder to be treated.

Generally, these products should be applied once or twice a day, or according to the doctor's advice.

In the cosmetic field, salicylic acid is used at a concentration varying from 1 to 2% (in greater quantities the lower the pH of the cosmetic used).

In the outpatient setting, on the other hand, the molecule can be used in an alcoholic solution at a concentration ranging from 20 to 30%: in similar circumstances, salicylic acid is used for surface and moderate depth treatments.

Indications

The main indication of salicylic acid is to prepare chemical peels, scrubs or creams against mild or moderate papulo-pustular acne: by removing the keratin plug, in fact, this molecule is able to free the pilosebaceous follicle reducing Visibly signs and symptoms of the disorder. Furthermore, salicylic acid penetrates rapidly into inflamed acne lesions exerting an excellent bacteriostatic and soothing action. For this purpose, 4-6 treatment sessions are generally necessary, spaced from each other by at least 21 days.

In addition to papular acne, salicylic acid is indicated in the following circumstances:

  • Acne in the comedonic phase and nodular acne;
  • Rosacea;
  • Dark spots on the skin related to photoaging (typical state of skin hyperpigmentation of middle-aged and elderly people);
  • Melasma or chloasma (gravidic mask);
  • Scalp disorders: dandruff, psoriasis (maximum concentration of salicylic acid permitted by law in hair cosmetics: 3%);
  • Corns, calluses and hyperkeratosis in general;
  • Warts (for further information: read the article on drugs for the treatment of warts).

By exfoliating the skin, salicylic acid facilitates the absorption of other active ingredients, especially moisturizing, emollient, nutrient agents, etc. The creams with hyaluronic acid, which exert an excellent moisturizing effect (and wrinkle).

Finally, salicylic acid is also used in medicinal preparations for topical use in association with other active ingredients, such as corticosteroids, for the treatment of skin diseases, such as chronic eczema, verrucous psoriasis, itchy psoriasis and neurodermatitis.

Results

The results obtained with the cosmetic use of salicylic acid are generally excellent and fully satisfy patients.

Thanks to the removal of superficial corneocytes, in fact, we are witnessing the removal of damaged cells that will then be replaced by healthy and newly formed keratinocytes.

The final effect promoted by salicylic acid, therefore, is surprising: in the case of acne lesions, the skin will appear markedly improved and the disorder considerably attenuated; in the case of skin spots, instead, the "new" keratinocytes - being less rich in melanin pigment - will give the skin a uniform, smooth and luminous appearance.

Warnings

It is recommended to avoid sun exposure during the entire treatment with salicylic acid: this substance, in fact, by thinning the natural barrier of the stratum corneum, makes the skin extremely susceptible to UV radiation. For this purpose, in addition to avoiding as much as possible direct exposure to the sun (and tanning sessions), it is recommended to apply high protection sunscreens (SPF 50).

Side effects

Although generally well tolerated, salicylic acid can also promote the appearance of some undesirable effects.

The keratolytic effect exerted by salicylic acid can occur quite clearly: in fact, it is not uncommon for large dark patches of corneocytes to form after the product is applied to the skin. However, this side effect tends to fade over a short period of time.

Other side effects that could occur in sensitive individuals are burning, redness, irritation and dry skin.

Drug interactions

Although the concentrations of salicylic acid in cosmetic products are rather low and despite the systemic absorption of the active ingredient is hardly possible, it is good practice to pay attention and inform your doctor if you are taking certain types of drugs. Among these, we recall:

  • Drugs for the treatment of diabetes;
  • Methotrexate;
  • Probenecid;
  • sulfa drugs;
  • Heparins;
  • Naproxen.

In fact, salicylic acid has the potential to interfere with the activity of the aforementioned medicines and / or worsen any side effects.

Contraindications

There are no particular contraindications to the use of creams or other cosmetics prepared with salicylic acid, except - clearly - for allergy to salicylates.

In this regard, it is essential to remember that the use of salicylic acid - both topically and orally - is absolutely contraindicated in individuals with known hypersensitivity to salicylates.

An allergic reaction to this substance, in fact, can have very serious consequences because it causes the appearance of symptoms such as:

  • Marked alteration of skin color;
  • Skin rush;
  • Urticaria;
  • Swelling of hands and feet;
  • Redness in the eyes;
  • Anaphylaxis (in extreme cases).

Finally, products containing salicylic acid should not be used in children under the age of 3 years.