Generality
Hyaluronic acid is widely used in cosmetics for the creation of moisturizing creams and film-forming products, ranging from make-up to antiaging cosmetics.
The creams with hyaluronic acid for the face restore their natural elasticity to dry and mature skins, which inevitably reduces as the age advances. Not by chance, hyaluronic acid is exploited precisely because of its extraordinary moisturizing effect: in fact, effectively retaining the water molecules, it helps to give softness and elasticity to mature skin. According to this, it is well understood that hyaluronic acid cosmetics prove to be faithful allies of women who are no longer young, who still aspire to a soft, firm and wrinkle-free skin. But are hyaluronic acid creams really effective for fighting the signs of skin aging? What lies behind media propaganda?
The whole truth about hyaluronic acid creams.
What is Hyaluronic Acid?
Hyaluronic acid has gained a prestigious role in the formulation of anti-aging cosmetic creams. What prodigious properties can this molecule boast? Why are hyaluronic acid creams so appreciated by the fairer sex (and not only ...)?
To answer these questions, it is necessary to understand what hyaluronic acid is and what activity it plays in the structure of the skin.
Hyaluronic acid is a component of the so-called fundamental substance of the dermis belonging to the group of glycosaminoglycans: precisely, it is a molecule naturally produced by the body in order to hydrate and protect tissues.
From the chemical point of view, hyaluronic acid is a high molecular weight polysaccharide belonging to the group of glycosaminoglycans: it is formed by a long unbranched chain consisting of the alternation of sugary units of glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine (amino sugar derived from glucose ). This particular structure makes hyaluronic acid able to bind and retain numerous water molecules, contributing to the maintenance of hydration and skin elasticity.
Moreover, together with the elastic fibers and collagen, hyaluronic acid contributes to the formation of what can be defined as the scaffolding that supports the skin, giving it elasticity, hydration, firmness, tone and resistance.
Many anti-aging creams are formulated with hyaluronic acid because of its surprising ability to bind many water molecules that - in addition to giving a deep hydration to the skin - protect it, at the same time, from excessive stress.
Inevitably, as age advances, the concentration of hyaluronic acid in the extracellular matrix of the dermis is reduced: for this reason, the creams with hyaluronic acid prove to be a good trick to make a mature skin more elastic and more hydrated.
Ideal Hyaluronic Acid Cream
What are the ideal requirements for a Hyaluronic Acid Cream?
A hyaluronic acid cream should satisfy the needs of consumers, acting on several levels. Therefore, it should:
- Correct the typical imperfections of skin aging (wrinkles, in particular);
- Deeply nourish the skin;
- Combat expression lines;
- Postpone the (almost inevitable) appearance of wrinkles;
- Stimulate skin cell renewal;
- Restore the natural hydro-lipid balance of the skin;
- Get a smoother, elastic and soft skin;
- Counteract the dryness of the skin, moisturizing it in depth.
Summing up all these ideal features in a single expression, a top-quality hyaluronic acid cream must be designed with a view to visibly rejuvenating the skin of the face.
To achieve this, hyaluronic acid alone is not enough, so it must be combined wisely with other ingredients.
Anti-wrinkle activity
The reason has not yet been fully clarified but, in fact, hyaluronic acid creams - applied to the skin daily (even several times a day) for a relatively long period of time - exert a good anti-wrinkle effect. What many researchers are unable to explain is the anti-wrinkle mechanism that lies at the base: how can a "simple" hyaluronic acid cream act effectively against wrinkles, considering the massive molecular bulk of this substance that hinders its passage through the epidermis?
In fact, hyaluronic acid is a very large molecule that cannot penetrate deep into the skin and, therefore, is unable to reach the deepest layers of the dermis, where fibroblasts are present.
The refinement of the research on cosmetic raw materials has allowed us to introduce in the cosmetics molecules of hyaluronic acid of much lower dimensions (lower molecular weight) than the "classical" form. This discovery has constituted a real turning point: the new molecules of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid obtained from cosmetic research, in fact, being lighter, increase the possibility of penetration through the skin, ensuring a better moisturizing and anti-wrinkle effect. This effect also appears to be enhanced by the incorporation of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid into liposomes. In fact, the fragments of the anti-aging molecule par excellence stimulate the activity of fibroblasts, thus favoring the synthesis of new hyaluronic acid.
Results
As mentioned, the creams with hyaluronic acid can give excellent results against the imperfections of the time, as long as they are used consistently and regularly.
The results, then, will be better if the hyaluronic acid contained in the cream is in its fragmented form ( hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid ).
Only the small molecules (low molecular weight), in fact, are able to penetrate the superficial cutaneous layers with ease: in this way, the hyaluronic acid cream confers tissue turgor, giving a filling - albeit temporary and of short duration - to superficial wrinkles.
in addition, regularly applied to the skin of the face, a hyaluronic acid cream forms a thin protective film, able to keep the skin soft, smooth and hydrated.
In practice, the topical application of this macromolecule determines the formation of an external film which reduces transpiratio insensibilis and indirectly improves skin hydration.
Disadvantages (and disappointments)
So far we have dwelt on presenting the hyaluronic acid cream as an impeccable remedy to counteract the signs of skin aging: but what disadvantages do they hide behind this alleged molecule of youth? Why is the much sought after anti-wrinkle effect not always satisfied?
First of all, it is necessary to highlight the importance of the regularity of application of the product: the anti-age creams (with hyaluronic acid, in this specific case) require a daily administration. Some cosmetic companies even suggest applying the product several times a day. The cream should be applied to the skin of the face in the morning and / or in the evening before sleeping at night; to take advantage of the maximum cosmetic effectiveness, it is advisable to facilitate absorption by gently massaging the product at the critical points of the face.
Not to forget, then, that the final effect promoted by the cream with hyaluronic acid is heavily influenced by lifestyle, eating habits and the context in which we live. For example, a sedentary person, who follows an unbalanced diet, works in polluted environments or - worse still - smokes, in all likelihood will not get a satisfactory anti-wrinkle effect, while applying the cream to hyaluronic acid twice a day. Hence the need to support the application of cosmetics to a regular diet, rich in fruit and vegetables (a source of vitamins and antioxidants par excellence). It is also recommended not to smoke and to devote oneself regularly to a sport practice to strengthen the immune system.
Did you know that ...
Also and especially prolonged exposure to UV rays (whether natural or artificial) promotes premature skin aging. Here, then, that the application (albeit regular) of creams with hyaluronic acid on facial skin "dried by the sun" may not guarantee the desired anti-aging effect.
Among the disadvantages of hyaluronic acid creams we cannot forget the cost (not always convenient) and the possible post-application skin reactions. Particularly sensitive and delicate skins may not like the application of similar products: in any case, it is necessary to point out that the possible allergic reaction to face creams is probably due more to the presence of perfumes or other substances of "completion" of the cosmetic, rather than to hyaluronic acid itself.
Not just antiaging creams
When hyaluronic acid creams are not sufficient to combat wrinkles, it is possible to intervene with other measures. In addition to being administered by topical application in the form of a cream, the known anti-aging molecule can be taken orally (as a supplement) or injected under the skin (fillers):
- Anti-wrinkle supplement with hyaluronic acid : to get the maximum anti-wrinkle effect without resorting to medicine or cosmetic surgery, it is advisable to combine the constant and regular application of creams with hyaluronic acid to the oral intake of the anti-aging supplement. In the formulation of an ideal anti-wrinkle supplement, hyaluronic acid is normally associated with antioxidant vitamins (especially vitamins A, C and E), coenzyme Q10 and other substances such as selenium, collagen and lipoic acid: all these active ingredients act simultaneously visibly enhancing the desired antiaging effect.
- Injections of filler with hyaluronic acid : they provide the skin with dry and damaged skin, a beneficial anti-aging, regenerating and moisturizing effect. The only flaw: the gradual reabsorption of the filler to the hyaluronic acid by the skin makes it necessary to periodically repeat injections, which are quite expensive (€ 300-600). To prolong and enhance the anti-wrinkle result, it is recommended to apply creams regularly with active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, collagen, lipoic acid, antioxidants, allantoin, panthenol or other cosmetic molecules with moisturizing and emollient action, even several times a day.
In conclusion, we reiterate the importance of following a healthy and balanced diet, and constantly dedicating ourselves to regular physical activity. On the one hand, in fact, a regular diet without excesses can slow down, as much as possible, the natural process of skin aging; on the other hand, sport is essential for enhancing endogenous antioxidant systems. According to this, it is understood as a cream with hyaluronic acid, as it is formulated with substances of superlative quality, it is not able, by itself, to attenuate and smooth out wrinkles effectively if it is not supported by a correct lifestyle.
