«Bags and dark circles: causes and training
The lack of a statistical evaluation regarding the frequency of the occurrence of dark circles and bags in the periocular area is counterbalanced by a considerable amount of advertising launches on the cosmetic market of anti-eye products that promise to minimize imperfections, highlighting the interest that revolves around this topic.
To date, the most widespread formulations for the eye contour include emulsions, serums, gels and emulsions-gels to minimize dark circles, bags and small wrinkles, correctors (to mask imperfections) and specific detergents for the peri-ocular area.
General advice
As a general rule, those affected by the problem of dark circles should not neglect a thorough cleansing to eliminate traces of eye shadows and mascara, using detergents characterized by a pH close to that of the tear fluid and formulated with ingredients well tolerated by the thin skin of the eye contour . Furthermore, emulsions formulated with occlusive oils (which could inhibit skin transpiration) should not be used, but water-based sera or gels characterized by the presence of moisturizing ingredients, such as panthenol, hyaluronic acid or hydrolysed collegene. Even the "do it yourself" remedies, such as chamomile, green tea and starch based wraps, can be useful, as well as massages in the eye area. The specific products for the eye contour indicated for the day, should also contain sunscreens, better if physical, to avoid the harmful action of ultraviolet rays, responsible for the degradation of dermal structures.
Finally, it must be considered that treatments to reduce dark circles must be prolonged in order to obtain the desired cosmetic benefits.
Anti-dark circles active principles
While on the one hand the skin around the eyes, being fragile and sensitive due to the position and the intrinsic anatomical-physiological characteristics, is more vulnerable to external aggressions than the other parts of the body, on the other hand, its thinness makes it more receptive to the cosmetic treatments it needs.
Strengthen the Microcirculation
Since it is established that the stagnation of the blood flow is a determining factor in the development of the dark circles formation process, the cosmetic anti-eye treatments on the market generally contain ingredients capable of stimulating the local microcirculation and vasoprotective activity. In particular, we can find topical formulations based on antioxidants, such as bioflavonoids, molecules capable of strengthening the wall of small vessels and decreasing their permeability. Until recently, vitamin K (phytonadione), a substance responsible for blood coagulation processes, was widely used. A gel containing 2% of vitamin K, 0.1% of retinol and 0.1% of vitamins C and E, was moderately effective after 8 weeks of treatment in reducing periocular dark circles, especially those caused by haemostasis, in 27 of the 57 (47%) women enrolled in the study. Recently, however, the use of the molecule in cosmetics in Europe due to its sensitizing potential has been banned 1.
On the other hand, there are no bans on the use of vitamin K1 oxide (phytonadione epoxide), a possible substitute for vitamin K in cosmetic anti-cries. Alternatively, the use of caffeine and plant extracts that contain it (Coffea arabica, Camelia sinensis, Theobroma cacao), of vegetable extracts such as Centella asiatica, for regulating the capillary-tissue and normalizing exchange of the tissue, is quite widespread. perivascular connective, and Chamomile, disarrosante and soothing, particularly suitable for the sensitive area around the eyes. Also the nicotinamide, due to its vasoprotective properties, allows to restore the normal blood flow.
Scientific Evidence
Despite the wide selection of useful treatments normally used in the treatment of dark circles, there is little scientific evidence to support the effectiveness of these anti-eye products. In a study2, conducted on 37 women with skin marked by dark circles, bags and wrinkles, an innovative emulsion for the eye contour was tested, functionalized with a mixture of ingredients, in particular growth factors and cytokines, in combination with caffeine, acid glycyrrhetinic and sodium hyaluronate. The application of the product twice a day for six weeks resulted in a significant improvement of all the imperfections considered. Another study3 monitored the effects of a serum containing 5% of a mixture of Pfaffia paniculata, Ptychopetalum olacoides and Lilium candidum extracts, titrated in saponins and flavonoids, in improving periorbital hyperchromy after a 28-day topical treatment. Using a colorimetric spectrophotoment, significant increases in the tone and brightness of the skin of the periocular area and a dose-dependent reduction, assessed by an in vitro model on reconstructed human epidermis, were found of the production of inflammatory mediators, such as prostaglandin E2, leukotriene B4 and histamine. In addition, the treatment stimulated the synthesis of the antioxidant superoxidismismase (SOD) enzyme. The mechanism of action of the extract in limiting the inflammatory process and in the antioxidant protection against the skin, however, remains unclear.
Other anti-eye ingredients
Among the recently acquired anti-spice ingredients on the market, we find a mixture based on soy peptides, rice and yeast proteins, which should promote the reduction of swelling and attenuate dark haloes, reinforce native collagen and elastin, minimizing the visible signs of cellular aging.
Another combination of active ingredients commercially available, with an anti-inflammatory and firming effect, which can be used to functionalise an eye contour treatment is made up of: N-hydroxysuccinimide, chrysin, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. A study of 22 volunteers carried out by the mixture manufacturer showed that the application of a gel containing 2% of the mixture led to a reduction in the bluish color of the ocia of about 20% after 56 days of treatment.
Alternatively, a synergistic blend characterized by hydrolysed yeast proteins and botanical extracts - including butcher's broom, centella, calendula, horse chestnut, rich in saponosides and flavonoids - has the property of strengthening the capillary wall by reactivating microcirculation. Another example, a product based on extract of ash, rich in aesculin and frassin, is marketed for its effectiveness in decreasing the permeability of capillaries and in inhibiting the oxidation of hemoglobin responsible for the bluish color of the skin.
Depigmenting
Since, as mentioned, in addition to microcirculation defects, a frequent cause of the formation of dark circles is represented by an excessive pigmentation, due to accumulation of melanin, the products containing depigmenting agents to minimize the dark rings typical of dark circles are rather widespread. Among the brightening agents for cosmetic use we find both substances capable of inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase and other enzymes involved in the synthesis of melanin - such as arbutin, glabridin, azelaic acid, resorcinol and vitamin C - and anti-coches molecules able to interfere with the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes, such as Niacinamide.
Instead, to attenuate the grayish circles caused by the accumulation of hemosiderin (pigment that binds iron) in the tissues of the periocular area, formulations functionalised with substances capable of binding the metal, such as triterpene acids, can be used.
1 Bruynzeel I, Hebeda CL, Folkers E, Bruynzeel D P. Cutaneous hypersensitivity reactions to vitamin K: 2 case reports and a review of the literature. Contact Dermatitis 1995: 32: 78–8 2 Novel eye cream containing a mixture of human growth factors and cytokines for periorbital skin rejuvenation. Lupo ML, Cohen JL, Rendon MI. J Drugs Dermatol. 2007 Jul; 6 (7): 725-9. 3 Effects of a Brazilian herbal compound as a cosmetic eyecare for periorbital hyperchromia ("dark circles"). Eberlin S, Del Carmen Velazquez Pereda M, de Campos Dieamant G, Nogueira C, Werka RM, de Souza Queiroz ML.
