milk and derivatives

Toma Piemontese by R.Borgacci

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What is the Piedmontese toma?

Piedmontese toma or Italian toma is the name used to indicate various cheeses - sometimes recognized as "dairy type" - very similar to each other, typical of the Piedmont region - provinces of Novara, Vercelli, Biella, Turin and Cuneo, and some municipalities of the provinces of Alessandria and Asti.

Today the Piedmontese toma enjoys the recognition Denomination of Protected Origin (DOP), before which on each type of these dairy products the geographical indication of production was specified: Biella, Val di Susa, Maccagno, Sordevolo, Valsesia, Valle Viona, Sestrière Boves, Gressoney and Lanzo. Today the Piedmontese tome are generally grouped in the two veins: Piedmontese DOP toma and semi-fat Piedmontese toma cheese.

The Piedmontese toma is part of the II fundamental group of foods - milk and derivatives rich in high biological value proteins, specific vitamins and minerals - especially B2 or riboflavin, calcium and phosphorus. It belongs to the category of fatty or semi-fat cheeses; it is very nutritious but also rich in calories and, in some cases - above all in clinical nutrition - is considered inappropriate to the nutritional balance of the diet - due to the abundance of sodium, saturated fat, cholesterol and so on.

Since there are various types of Piedmontese toma, it is necessary to make an essential but accurate distinction. All tomes are washed rind, made from cow's milk from local cow breeds. On the other hand, they can be differentiated by their fatness level; some tome are made from whole milk, others from partially skimmed milk. Pasta is almost always semi-cooked but, as in the previous case, it is not a rule; in fact there are various tome with raw pasta. Finally, in addition to the production area, these cheeses can be differentiated by the size of the shape and the degree of seasoning.

The toma has a rather "classic", cylindrical, with flat faces and slightly convex sides. The dimensions and therefore the weight are very variable, from less than 2 kg to almost 10 kg. The consistency and organoleptic-gustative properties may vary depending on the type of milk, the cheese-making system and the seasoning period.

The Piedmontese toma is eaten mostly alone, as a table cheese. It is associated with white wines, also perfumed, or light sparkling reds.

Nutritional Properties

Nutritional properties of the Piedmontese toma

The Piedmontese toma is a cheese that belongs to the II fundamental group of foods - foods rich in proteins with high biological value, specific vitamins and minerals of milk and derivatives.

It has an energy supply and a medium-high level of fats that are higher in whole milk cheeses and increase with aging. Calories are mainly supplied by triglycerides, followed by proteins and small amounts of carbohydrates - even if most of the carbohydrates contained in milk are degraded into lactic acid by the biological starter. Fatty acids are predominantly saturated, peptides with a high biological value - that is they supply all the essential amino acids in the right proportions and quantities with respect to the human protein model - and soluble / simple carbohydrates - type lactose disaccharide. Note : glucides are more abundant in low-seasoned tomes, while they are almost absent in ripe ones.

The Piedmontese toma does not contain fiber, while the cholesterol level is far from negligible. The amount of histamine, which is formed by decarboxylation of the amino acid histidine in free form, is modest - but increases with aging. Being a highly proteinic product, this cheese provides considerable amounts of phenylalanine amino acid. The quantity of purines is contained. It does not contain gluten.

The vitamin profile of the Piedmontese toma is characterized above all by the abundance in riboflavin (vit B2) and retinol or equivalent (vitamin A and / or RAE). Many other water-soluble B-group vitamins such as thiamine (vit B1) and niacin (vit PP) are fairly concentrated. With regards to minerals, on the other hand, the cheese shows significant concentrations of calcium, phosphorus and sodium chloride.

Diet

Piedmontese toma in the diet

The Piedmontese toma has a quite significant energy supply - especially due to the considerable presence of fat. Its relevance in the diet varies mainly based on the nutritional status of the consumer.

In weight-loss diet therapy against overweight - which must be low-calorie and normolipid - it is necessary to adjust both the portion and the frequency of consumption. The prevalence of saturated fatty acids on unsaturates, associated with the presence of cholesterol, makes the Piedmontese toma unsuitable or irrelevant in the case of hypercholesterolemia.

The Piedmontese toma is an excellent source of essential amino acids, all contained in the high biological value proteins enclosed in it. It is therefore recommended in the various situations characterized by a greater need for essential amino acids, such as: general malnutrition and defedamento, specific protein deficiency, chronic malabsorption (intestinal), increased metabolic needs: pregnancy, lactation, extraordinarily intense and prolonged sports, etc.

However, the use of the Piedmontese toma as a nutritional source of high biological value proteins / essential amino acids is limited by its less desirable properties which, in the balanced diet of a healthy subject, require the use of medium-sized portions and frequency of consumption.

The traces of lactose, not too abundant thanks to the lactic fermentation that takes place in production, can be annoying for hypersensitive subjects. Moreover the presence - even limited - of histamine suggests paying attention in case of specific food intolerance. It has no contraindications for the diet of celiac, hyperuricemic and against kidney stones (renal lithiasis) from uric acid. Being rich in phenylalanine, it must be taken in moderation in the case of phenylketonuria. It goes without saying that, being very rich in milk proteins, it should not be included in the allergic diet to these nutrients.

By virtue of the wide range of water-soluble vitamins of group B - which mainly perform the function of cellular coenzymes - the Piedmontese toma can be considered a useful food to support the metabolic processes of all tissues. The fat-soluble vitamin A and / or the equivalents (RAE) abound, necessary to maintain the visual function, reproductive capacity, cellular differentiation, antioxidant defense, etc., intact.

For the significant amount of sodium - greater in the mature types - the Piedmontese toma is only limitedly granted in the preventive and / or therapeutic diet the primary sodium sensitive hypertension. Regarding the richness of calcium and phosphorus - a very useful feature to support skeletal metabolism, a very delicate process in fetal development, growing and in old age with an increased risk of osteoporosis - the Piedmontese toma is recommended in the diet of the pregnant woman, of the child and the elder. Note : it is good to remember that for bone health it is necessary to ensure a correct intake of vitamin D or adequate sun exposure.

The semi-fat and slightly seasoned Piedmontese toma is more digestible than more fatty and / or mature cheeses. However, it should be remembered that, in the case of difficulties or digestive diseases, the entire fundamental group of foods requires adequate portions - especially in the evening meal. It is therefore essential to reduce the amount of Piedmontese toma or avoid it especially in the case of: dyspepsia, gastroesophageal reflux disease, strong stomach acid, gastritis, gastric or duodenal peptic ulcer.

The Piedmontese toma is not allowed in the vegan diet and, if made with veal rennet, not even in the vegetarian, Hindu and Buddhist one. Coming from cow's milk, it should be considered a kosher and halal food.

Some Piedmontese tome - from pasteurized milk and cooked pasta - can be consumed freely in case of gestation, due to the very low risk of bacterial contamination from Listeria monocytogenes ; others, on the other hand, are produced from raw milk but, not being blue cheeses or muffettas, they are still considered "fairly" safe. It is obviously recommended to remove the surface crust. Note : given the thermolability of Listeria monocytogenes, many pregnant women choose to eat the cheeses only after cooked.

The frequency of consumption for a healthy subject of Piedmontese toma - as a dish - is about 2 times a week, with an average portion of about 80 g.

Kitchen

Use in the kitchen

The Piedmontese toma is mainly used as a table cheese, especially when paired with or supplemented with Piedmontese recipes - especially mountain ones. It can be grated in the "bruss".

The most recommended enological pairing is with white Magnus Langhe Chardonnay dry wines, or with sparkling and light reds such as Barbera del Monferrato

Description

Description of the Piedmontese toma

The Piedmontese toma is cylindrical in shape, with flat faces and slightly convex sides. The diameter is 15-35 cm, the height of 6-12 cm and the weight of 1.8-8.0 kg.

On the outside it matures an elastic, smooth rind, light straw-colored or reddish brown - depending on the seasoning. The ingredients and the cheesemaking give rise to products that are also very different, in particular in the consistency of the dough, which is more often soft and rarely semi-hard, of a white color tending to straw-colored, with small and widespread holes.

The taste is mainly sweet, palatable and not at all rude; the aroma is characteristic.

Production

Production of the Piedmontese toma

The production of the Piedmontese toma covers all the year. Only whole or semi-skimmed milk is used, raw or pasteurized, obtained from one or two milkings made in the manufacturing area; the permitted breeds of cows are: Frisona, Valdostana, mestizos, Pezzata Rossa, Bruna Alpina and Piemontese - in this order of diffusion.

The milk, possibly partially skimmed and / or pasteurized, is inoculated with the starter or serum graft. The biological starter used for fermentation is based on lactic streptococci and lactobacilli, with a significant presence of coliforms, sometimes also of Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus, especially in non-dairy products with maturation of less than 50 days.

Subsequently calf rennet coagulation takes place. The resulting curd, of rennet type, is broken and extracted to be pressed. Salting takes place in brine.

Maturing - during which the cheeses are turned upside down repeatedly and washed superficially - is a minimum of 15 days for small cheeses and 60 for those over 6 kg or any size if they are uphill; on average it is around 20-45 days and occurs in damp (about 85%) and cool (6-10 ° C).