«Introduction to natural cosmetics
Another critical aspect in the formulation of products with natural characteristics is the "soap" effect, a frequent phenomenon when applying "natural" emulsions, an inconvenience that would be easily avoided by using small amounts of dimethicone (a silicone molecule).
The market for natural cosmetics and eco-conscious consumption has been open to sunscreens for some years now, with the formulation of products in which the filtering capacity is given by inorganic pigments, more suitable for subjects with sensitive skin than chemical filters, some of which may be sensitizing and poorly tolerated, as well as involving bioaccumulation: a study recently conducted by a team of researchers from the Department of Marine Sciences of the Polytechnic of Ancona, coordinated by professor Roberto Danovaro, has shown the correlation between the use of sunscreens based on chemical filters in reef areas close to the reef and progressive bleaching of corals, a phenomenon that risks destroying 10% of coral reefs.1 However, despite the fact that micronised forms of titanium dioxide and oxide are currently on the market zinc which, by virtue of the reduced size of the particles to the order of large of nanometers, they allow to shield low wavelength radiations such as UV but not visible light, minimizing the white effect, the spreadability and the homogeneity of distribution of the emulsions formulated with well calibrated mixtures of chemical filters is even higher . Beyond the hedonistic concept, the advantage of using a mixture of organic filters compared to physical filters alone, especially in formulations with a high protection factor, lies in the fact that the quantity and frequency of application by the consumer of a solar product, it is superior if you choose products with a good texture and spreadability, that do not require an excessive absorption time and do not leave residues. Given the importance of the solar product as a health tool, this advantage translates into greater safety.
It is also not superfluous to point out that the quality and concentration of an ingredient inserted into a product is important not only in the formulation of a traditional cosmetic, but also in a product that boasts natural characteristics, since even the raw materials from nature can have harmful effects if of poor quality or if used at high concentrations, in particular on subjects with sensitive skin and allergic predisposition . An example is essential oils which, despite being produced by nature, due to their composition and ease of permeation through the stratum corneum, can be highly irritating and sensitizing. Not to mention the problem of the presence of peroxidic radicals or lipoperoxides in a poor quality or poorly preserved vegetable oil which, in addition to the inconvenience of the unpleasant smell, can cause oxidative reactions and irritation when applied to the skin. Raw materials of natural origin are not exempted from meeting criteria relating to harmlessness, efficacy, safety and pleasantness. It is necessary to have guarantees on the residues of chemical solvents used in the extraction or processing techniques. And in an increasingly eco-sustainable perspective, the environmental impact of the extractive methods used is another key aspect in the "naturalness" of the product.
If it is true that the development path of the formulation of a natural product is fraught with difficulties, it remains a firm conviction on our part that, respecting some fundamental rules, it is possible to prepare a qualified natural product, capable of meeting safety and efficacy requirements and free of substances deemed poorly compatible with the environment and harmful to the environment. In the first place, since simplicity is the basis of a natural product and this philosophy is not synonymous with banality, the natural product must be prepared by selecting and combining the ingredients wisely and using a limited quantity to reduce the risk of sensitization and allergy phenomena, and why it is not correct towards the consumer to add trace components for marketing reasons, but with the idea of pursuing a real effectiveness. Effectiveness that can be achieved, in our opinion, also with useful synthetic components, such as ceramides, vitamins or hyaluronic acid. It should also be emphasized that the concept of "naturalness" and "safety" of a cosmetic product is often confused with the absence of an ingredient presented with an alarmist tone by mass communication . In fact, the affirmation of the "non presence" of certain ingredients implicitly accuses the products that contain them of being unsafe. This is the case of the various claims of "without" something, such as "without" preservatives, gluten, silicones, SLS, or even "without" paraffins or petrolatums. In a good natural cosmetic should be used, in addition to plant extracts free of pesticides, extraction solvents and impurities, high concentrations of vegetable oils, whose main advantage consists in their lipid composition, very similar to that of human sebum, affinity that gives their marked ability to restore the physiological skin barrier through a protective-film-forming and emollient action. Finally, another advantage of quality natural cosmetics should be the promotion of "green chemistry" or in any case a "sustainable" use of natural resources, a philosophy that encourages greater attention to the production chain, not only for the origin of the raw materials, but also for the manufacturing processes, which must favor the low environmental impact, minimize energy consumption, avoid the use and formation of dangerous substances, both for cosmetics and for all the contour elements such as packaging and communication.
