Exfoliants and Chemical Exfoliants - Use and Types of Exfoliants

Exfoliate the Skin

Exfoliating the skin is synonymous with "skin cleansing" and removal of dead cells deposited on the surface of the epidermis. Exfoliating products are much appreciated by women, especially those no longer young: mature skin, in fact, tends to dry more easily, is not very elastic and loses the natural radiance of young skin.

Even men, however, should appreciate exfoliating products more: in addition to making the skin more elastic and radiant, the scrub is in fact a precious ally for shaving the beard and removing impurities typical of male skin.

Advantages

Benefits of Skin Exfoliation

Here, then, that cosmetics formulated with exfoliating products can rejuvenate the aesthetic aspect by exerting a triple action:

• They promote cellular turnover : the physiological epidermal renewal tends to slow down as we age. The application of exfoliating substances on the skin supports and stimulates the production of new cells. In doing so, the "renewed" skin surface can regain brightness and softness, while improving its natural color.
• They stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, enhancing the activity of fibroblasts.
• They facilitate the absorption of other active ingredients on the skin (eg moisturizing, nourishing, emollient, depigmenting etc.) applied immediately after treatment with exfoliating products.

Application of an exfoliating product: unraveling (controlled) of some superficial layers of the skin → skin desquamation → acceleration of cellular turnover → increased synthesis of collagen and elastin → more luminous, elastic and hydrated skin.

Here we will focus on chemical exfoliants (or chemical peels): what are they? Why are they in great demand in the field of dermocosmetics? What are the risks?

Indications

Indications of Chemical Exfoliants

Chemical exfoliants are widely used in the treatment of mature, acneic and dry skin; often, these substances are also required to combat more superficial wrinkles, to give the skin a uniform complexion and to counteract dark skin spots.

Chemical exfoliants are exploited to perform the so-called chemical peeling, a dermo-aesthetic technique widely used to counteract ailments of various kinds, such as the imperfections of time, acne, stretch marks or other types of skin diseases (warts, keratoses, etc. .).

Action mechanism

Mechanism of action of chemical exfoliants

Unlike physical exfoliants - whose action is encouraged by their mechanical rubbing on the skin - chemical exfoliants induce skin exfoliation through the weakening and rupture of the intercellular junctions (the desmosomes) present between one keratinocyte and another. By doing so, the detachment, and therefore the elimination, of the dead surface cells is promoted, stimulating and favoring cellular turnover.

In other words, we can say that chemical exfoliants exert what is commonly defined as a keratolytic action .

Naturally, given their particular mechanism of action, chemical exfoliants must be used with greater and particular attention than physical exfoliants. In fact, if not applied correctly and in the right concentrations, they can cause damage and even serious skin lesions. Accordingly, it is easy to understand how the use of these products is reserved for experienced and competent personnel.

Types of Chemical Exfoliants

The chemical exfoliants currently used in the dermo-aesthetic field are manifold. Each of them has its own characteristics that make it more suitable for treating certain types of disorders or blemishes.

Undoubtedly, alpha-hydroxy acids titrate the chapter of the exfoliating substances used in chemical peeling: lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid are the protagonists of this category.

But the list of exfoliating substances is very long: among these we cannot forget salicylic acid (the known Beta-hydroxy acid), retinol derivatives and polyhydroxy acids, such as lactobionic acid and gluconolactone.

The table shows the general characteristics of the most commonly used exfoliating substances.

CHEMICAL EXFOLIANTS
FIRST NAME	CATEGORY OF MEMBERSHIP	FEATURES
Lactic acid	Alpha-hydroxy acids	For cosmetic use: indicated as an exfoliating agent in the treatment of dandruff, keratoses, warts, calluses and acne. Combined with other exfoliating agents to combat dry and dry skin. Also used in feminine hygiene products (balancing properties of vaginal pH). It gives softness, hydration, brightness and elasticity to the skin. Alleged ability to stimulate the synthesis of ceramides, helping to enhance the barrier function of the skin. High acidity. Common post-application side effects: redness, dermatitis and skin sensitization.
Glycolic acid	Alpha-hydroxy acids	Very fast exfoliating action (light molecule, low molecular weight, easily absorbed by the skin). The exfoliating action is supported by the action of cell renewal: glycolic acid stimulates the synthesis of collagen, hyaluronic acid, mucopolysaccharides. Excellent exfoliating properties at a concentration between 10 and 15%: indicated for the treatment of acne, psoriasis and keratosis. At a higher concentration (15-70%), this exfoliating substance is used for the treatment of wrinkles, stretch marks and dark spots on the skin It restores its natural softness and elasticity to dehydrated and dry skin (moisturizing properties at a concentration <10%) Common post-application side effects: redness, dermatitis, itching, erythema and skin sensitization.
Mandelic acid	Alpha-hydroxy acids	Extremely delicate exfoliating product. Find the main indication in the treatment of acne Also suitable for treating blackheads, skin discoloration, dry and dry skin, superficial wrinkles, rosacea. Especially known for its minimal post-application side effects. This chemical exfoliant can also be applied a few hours before sun exposure since the substance is not photo-sensitizing.
Salicylic acid	Beta-hydroxy acids	Used in cosmetics to prepare superficial peels in the treatment of mild or moderate pustular acne. It must NOT be given to patients allergic to salicylates. The exfoliant quickly penetrates inflamed lesions, exerting a bacteriostatic and soothing action. The exfoliating effect can be very evident: possible formation of dark spots (spontaneous reversible effect in a few days). Exfoliating effect guaranteed even at very low concentrations (1-2%). Indicated for the treatment of melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. During the entire treatment period (4-6 sessions, spaced apart from each other by at least 3 weeks) it is strongly recommended not to expose yourself to the sun.
Retinoic acid	Retinol derivatives	Acid form of vitamin A. The exfoliating action of retinoic acid is promoted by the reepithelizing and normalizing capacity of the skin. Encourages mobile turn-over. It moisturizes the skin and keeps it soft longer. This exfoliant is often formulated together with depigmenting active ingredients. Has a good anti-wrinkle effect. Promotes the maintenance of skin integrity and functionality. Similar to tretinonin, at high doses retinoic acid is a known teratogen, even long after the end of treatment. Do not use if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.
Tretinoin	Retinol derivatives	Trans form of retinoic acid. Used in dermatology as an exfoliant, in the treatment of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Used at very low concentrations (0.05-1%). Satisfactory effects visible in the long term (only after 6 months of treatment). CANNOT be used in cosmetics.
Lactobionic acid	polyhydroxy	Much more delicate than hydroxy acid exfoliants. Molecule with delicate exfoliating properties. Promotes cell renewal while regulating the mechanisms of keratinization. Exfoliant indicated for treatment against skin aging. Given its delicate action, it is used in the treatment of sensitive skin.
gluconolactone	polyhydroxy	Cyclic form of gluconic acid. Exfoliating substance with excellent moisturizing properties Substance naturally present in the skin as a metabolite in cell renewal processes. Much more delicate than hydroxy acids. It is formulated together with other exfoliating substances (in particular, alpha-hydroxy acid) to reduce the possible irritative phenomena that could be observed on the skin after application.
Trichloroacetic acid (TCA)	Carboxylic acid	Used only in the dermatological field for the treatment of: warts, cutaneous dyschromias, post-acneic and post-surgical scars, rosacea, medium-severe grade photo-aging, melasma, senile lentigo, keratosis. It is used in concentrations varying from 10% to 40% depending on the type of peeling to be performed (10-25% for a superficial peeling, 30-40% for a deep peeling). Depending on the concentration used, the skin takes 3 to 15 days to regenerate. After the treatment may occur: itching, burning, hyperemia, redness, swelling and erythema.

Mode of use

Method of use of chemical exfoliants

As mentioned, chemical exfoliants should be handled exclusively by specialized personnel, since it is of fundamental importance that they are used at the right concentrations and applied correctly, in order to avoid the appearance of undesired effects and complications. However, some types of exfoliants can be used at low concentrations even in beauty centers; however, the effectiveness of the peels performed in this area will be decidedly lower than that performed in the medical-aesthetic and dermatological field.

Furthermore, for the same reasons, when undergoing a treatment with chemical exfoliants, it is necessary to follow all the indications provided by the dermatologist. In particular, it is very important to avoid exposure to UV rays (natural or artificial) both before and after treatment (with the exception of peelings performed with mandelic acid, since - by exerting a very delicate exfoliating action - it can be used even before sun exposure).

Side effects

Complications and side effects caused by chemical exfoliants

The side effects caused by chemical exfoliants vary greatly depending on various factors, such as the type of product used, the concentration of the same and the residence time on the skin.

In principle, most chemical exfoliants can cause unwanted effects such as redness, burning or irritation. These effects, however, are generally mild and tend to resolve within a short time.

As repeatedly stated, treatment with chemical exfoliants should only be carried out by specialized medical personnel, only in this way can the appearance of complications be avoided. However, in some cases - albeit rare - it is possible to experience complications such as scars and / or infections.