beauty

Wrinkles and skin aging

Generality

If on the one hand the time that passes enriches us with experiences and memories, on the other, it deprives us of that freshness of appearance and energy that characterizes youth. Aging is a biological process influenced by various factors, both environmental and genetic.

Since ancient times the human being has tried to counteract the negative signs of the passage of time on the skin and on the physical, and today more than ever this has become one of the priority objectives for Western civilizations.

If it is impossible to stop the biological clock, it is however possible to prevent the formation of wrinkles and mask the imperfections that are already present on our skin.

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Skin aging Wrinkle appearanceControlling premature agingVitaminsEnzymatic systemsSoft focus soft focus peptidesDegmenting for wrinkles and skin aging

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Skin aging

Skin aging is an irreversible evolutionary process; it is composed of a set of physiological alterations that determine the loss of skin hydration, the appearance of micro-wrinkles, the loss of elasticity, hyperkeratosis and the formation of hyperpigmented spots, called "senile spots".

These alterations are the result of two parallel events: chronological aging and aging by environmental factors.

Intrinsic aging

Chronological aging is due to genetic factors; it begins after the age of 25, to show itself visibly from the age of 40 onwards.

At the level of the epidermis this form of aging is expressed with the reduction of the proliferative capacity of the cells of the basement membrane and with its consequent thinning. Decreases the number of Langerhans cells, cells of the immune system present on the epidermis, as well as decreases the activity of melanocytes, cells responsible for producing the melanin responsible for tanning when exposed to the sun: its decrease determines an increase in skin sensitivity to burns during exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

At the level of the dermis the number and functionality of fibroblasts is reduced: they respond less and less to the endogenous factors that stimulate them in the proliferative activity and in the biosynthesis of macromolecules, such as collagen and elastin, responsible for giving tone and elasticity to the skin, and the so-called glucosamminoglycans, among which we mention hyaluronic acid. Even the cutaneous glands progressively reduce their activity, with the consequent reduction of sebum and an increase in skin dryness.

Aging from Environmental Factors

The second type of aging is instead induced by environmental factors, among which the so-called photo-aging or photoaging plays a major role: a chronic insult caused by prolonged exposure to sunlight, which produces premature aging.

Among the other environmental factors responsible for skin aging are different types of pollutants, as well as harmful and irritating substances such as cigarette smoke.

All these factors induce the formation of free radicals and the reduction of enzymes that have antioxidant properties. Free radicals are chemical species that react very easily with other molecules, causing damage to DNA, RNA, proteins and membrane lipids, with the consequent thickening and loss of elasticity of the skin. The formation of free radicals determines the activation of a factor, called AP-1, which stimulates the transcription in the DNA of genes that encode by enzymes with the task both to degrade the structure of the extracellular matrix, and to reduce the synthesis, by of the cells of the dermis (the fibroblasts), of one of the most important macromolecules of this matrix, the collagen, principal responsible of the cutaneous tonicity.

In general photo-aging, or photoaging, causes accelerated aging which, with respect to chronological aging, is expressed with more accentuated cutaneous manifestations in relation to some aspects, such as cutaneous hyperpigmentation which, initially, is shown through the formation of freckles, but then evolves into real age spots. The possible dilatations of the capillaries due to prolonged exposure to the sun and the formation of skin tumors are more serious.

Wrinkle appearance

The most obvious sign of the progress of the aging process is given by wrinkles, which have the appearance of permanent, linear and thin furrows hollowed out on the forehead. They are divided into two types: those of expression and those of old age.

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Expression wrinkles are a reflection of facial expression: they are also manifested on a young face and are determined by habits assumed when speaking or expressing one's emotions through facial expression.

Old age wrinkles, on the other hand, appear physiologically after the age of 30, when that tone and elasticity that collagen and elastin give to young skin begin to fail. Furthermore, the so-called subcutaneous fat begins to lose its turgor and muscle mass relaxes. In the faces of elderly people these furrows are very evident; their skin turns downwards, because it is pushed by gravity.

Making a general overview of what happens in the course of life it can be said that, between the ages of 30 and 40, the areas affected by the appearance of old age wrinkles are the eyelids and the areas around the eye sockets, the nasolabial furrow and the angles of the mouth. The horizontal signs on the forehead begin to appear even in the resting phase and not only when the muscles contract.

Between 40 and 50 years the forehead and glabella wrinkles are accentuated, as well as the so-called "crow's feet" become more evident; the lips tend to thin and the tone of the cheeks is drastically reduced.

Between the ages of 50 and 60 all these wrinkled manifestations become more and more accentuated and the neck skin begins to give way. Between the ages of 60 and 70 the panniculus of fat that gives tone to the cheeks is now almost completely absent and the face is hollowing more and more, until, after 70 years, the skin becomes thin and fragile, the muscles relax and the fat residue accumulates under the chin.