skin health

Functional principles used in children's cosmetics

It is possible to classify the most used functional in cosmetic products for children by dividing them according to their properties:

Soothing and anti-reddening

18-beta glycyrrhetinic acid (Glycirrhetinic acid) is derived from the roots of licorice and is known for its cortisone-like anti-inflammatory properties. Numerous studies show the soothing and adjuvant activities of 18 beta-glycyrrhetic acid in skin regeneration processes.

Alpha-bisabolol (Bisabolol) is the main active ingredient contained in the essential oil of chamomile. It is an effective soothing against irritation or redness and a mild antiseptic, safe from a toxicological point of view.

The marigold extract ( Calendula officinalis ), a herbaceous plant native to Egypt, is rich in flavonoids responsible for the anti-inflammatory effect on sensitive and reddened skin. Flavonoids also stimulate re-epithelialization, accelerate epidermal turnover and promote the activity of dermal fibroblasts by promoting collagen synthesis.

Starch, a white powder obtained from wheat ( Triticum vulgar starch), rice ( Oryza sativa starch), maize ( Zea mays starch) and potato (Potato starch), is a polysaccharide consisting of several glucose molecules that it gels in hot water forming a viscous solution that after cooling has the appearance of a gel. Rice starch is the most widely used for the preparation of emollient and refreshing cosmetic products such as moisturizers, softeners and bath products. Applied on the skin, it is not absorbed but is stratified by acting as a cutaneous protective agent with an emollient action.

Protective, Soothing, Moisturizing

The aloe gel ( Aloe barbadensis ) is rich in vitamins C and E, minerals and trace elements that stimulate cellular reparative activity, and in polysaccharides which, thanks to their ability to form a veil on the skin that hinders TEWL, play a protective role. soothing and humectant.

The Mucilages (for example those obtained from the Althea officinalis or from the Malva sylvestris ) are rich in polysaccharides, particularly hydrophilic compounds capable of absorbing considerable amounts of water, forming fluid gels which, when applied topically, have a moisturizing, emollient, decongestant action on the inflamed skin and protector of mucous membranes.

Panthenol (Panthenol), or provitamin B5, has marked moisturizing and emollient-soothing properties (eg to reduce erythema and dermatitis caused by long exposure to ultraviolet rays).

Beta-glucan (Betaglucan), a high-molecular hydrocolloid derived from oat caryopsis, is also a high molecular weight polysaccharide that, similarly to other hydrophilic colloids, is able to bind large quantities of water in a reversible way, that is, it is able to return it to the level of the stratum corneum (moisturizing action). Moreover, due to its film-forming properties, it can constitute an element of mechanical protection from external insults.

Softeners and keratoplastics

Allantoin (Allantoin) is a multifunctional molecule with an ideal safety profile (non-toxic, non-irritating, non-sensitizing, effective at low doses). It is classified as a cutaneous protective, has a soothing and re-epithelising action; stimulates tissue renewal, promotes healing and reduces redness and irritation. It is useful both as an ingredient with preventive action, for example against diaper dermatitis, and as a cosmetic with reparative action against all types of skin damage, from sun exposure to chemical and mechanical insults.

Emollients

Shea Butter ( Butyrospermum parkii butter) is rich in fatty acids, vitamins and unsaponifiable fraction. It has a high emollient and moisturizing power. Thanks to its excellent toxicological profile, it is the ideal lipid for the treatment of delicate and sensitive skin. Vegetable oils with a high content of polyunsaturated fatty acids (from the omega 3 and omega six series), such as wheat germ oil ( Triticum vulgare ), borage ( Borrago officinalis seed oil ), sweet almond ( Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil ), of macadamia ( Macadamia ternifolia seed oil ), of olive (Olea europea oil) all have a powerful moisturizing, emollient and skin regenerating action.

Antioxidants

Flavonoids (such as those derived from Calendula officinalis and Chamomilla recutita ) are known for their anti-inflammatory effect, thanks to the inhibition of two oxido-reducing enzymes, the cycle and lipoxygenases. They also function as powerful antioxidants and metal chelators.

Decongestants

The Tannins (contained in the leaves of Hamamelis virginiana ) are aromatic compounds of polyphenolic nature and are used in the paid zone by virtue of their astral astringent action. In fact, the tannins cause vasoconstriction of the capillaries with a consequent reduction in vascular permeability, with a local anti-inflammatory effect.