How to combat premature aging
The knowledge of the mechanisms with which premature skin aging occurs, not determined by genetic factors, provides the basis for approaches to its prevention and the choice of the most effective dermocosmetological treatment to combat it.
In reality, "combating the formation of wrinkles" is the result of a synergy of features that could be summarized as follows:
- Topical application of antioxidants, molecules able to "capture" and neutralize free radicals, responsible for irreversible damage to the skin;
- Constant and continuous use, during sun exposure, of chemical or physical filters, which shield from UVA and UVB rays to prevent damage caused by ultraviolet radiation;
- Use of smoothing and exfoliating molecules, such as alpha-hydroxy acids, which stimulate the physiological cell regeneration, making the skin softer and brighter;
- Application of depigmenting molecules, which inhibit the production of melanin, reducing the intensity of age spots;
- Application of myorelaxant peptides able to reduce loss of elasticity and skin tone, by blocking the muscles that mimics that of botulinum toxin;
- Use of soft-focus agents, substances able to reduce the visibility of skin roughness through an optical phenomenon.
We will now describe, in more detail, the characteristics of some of the ingredients we have mentioned and that are used in anti-aging cosmetic products.
Antioxidants
- Vitamins: A, C and E
Vitamins
The main vitamins used in the cosmetic field are divided into two categories: liposoluble, ie soluble in oils or fats, such as vitamin A and vitamin E, and water-soluble ones, such as vitamin C or vitamin B3.
Vitamin A
Vitamin A can be used in various forms, including retinol and its more stable esterified forms, such as retinyl acetate, retinyl propinate and retinyl palmitate. Through the action of some enzymes present on our skin, these molecules are all converted into trans-retinoic acid, which represents the biologically active form of Vitamin A.
At the level of the dermis, vitamin A acts instead, causing an increase in the production of collagen, with a consequent improvement of that "support structure" which contributes to giving tone and elasticity to the skin.
Vitamin A, in all its forms, is however easily subject to degradation if exposed to light and air: it is therefore preferable to use it in night creams.
The retinoic acid molecule is a particular form of vitamin A much more effective than others in the treatment of premature aging but, due to its strongly keratolytic and potentially irritating activity, its use is allowed only in the dermatological field.
Vitamin E
Vitamin E and its esters possess a high antioxidant activity, as they are able to neutralize the reactivity of free radicals, blocking the cascade of events that determine the oxidative stress responsible for cell damage.
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Vitamin E is widely used in products for sun exposure because it is able to absorb UV rays in the wavelength ranges that cause the most damaging effects on the skin's physiology.
When applied after exposure to sunlight, vitamin E can reduce sun-induced erythema and edema; in addition, topical applications of vitamin E can improve skin hydration in the horny layer of the epidermis, and the ability to retain water in the skin layers.
In the field of cosmetology, the most commonly used forms of Vitamin E are tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate (an ester that hydrolyses and liberates α-tocopherol). Tocopherol has a marked lipophilic nature and is therefore particularly akin to cell membranes, where it is able to effectively counteract the excess of ROS (free radicals), preventing the lipoperoxidation process. When it has performed its function, tocopherol oxidizes and becomes inactive, but its functionality can be regenerated by vitamin C, in the form of L-ascorbic acid: its use in cosmetic formulations is therefore often accompanied by that of vitamins A and C, since their association determines an enhancement and an extension of the antioxidant action.
