What is Elastin?
Elastin is a characteristic protein of the skin, to which it guarantees elasticity and the possibility of deforming when subjected to mechanical stresses.
Produced by dermal fibroblasts, elastin is able to stretch and contract within certain limits without being damaged. In quantitative terms, it represents 2% of the weight of the dermis; secreted in the form of monomer (tropoelastine), it contributes together with fibrillin microfibrils to form a three-dimensional lattice that gives the skin a certain elasticity.
Synthesis
Elastin is synthesized within the fibroblasts in the form of a monomer called tropoelastine. Tropoelastine is a high molecular weight protein (about 70, 000 Daltons) which is characterized by the presence of amino acids such as proline, glycine, alanine and valine.
It is this lattice formed by elastin that gives the skin its natural elasticity and its ability to resist deformation. This elasticity, however, is limited by intertwining with the collagen fibers which give the skin compactness and tensile strength.
Degradation
Causes and Consequences of Degradation of Elastin
The causes of the degradation of the elastin or the alteration of its structure may be different.
For example, there are situations in which the relaxation of the skin exceeds the elastic capacity of the elastin. This is the case of a rapid increase in weight, which is followed by the "failure" of the fabric and the appearance of the so-called striae distensae, better known as stretch marks.
Cortisone therapies, especially if prolonged over time, have been shown to reduce the synthesis of elastin, not surprisingly they are well known as responsible for stretch marks.
Another enemy of elastin is aging; especially after 30-40 years, the dermal concentrations of functional elastin decrease, and the skin loses its elasticity. This happens both for a reduction of the synthesis of elastin, and for the hyper-activation of enzymatic systems (metalloproteases, in the specific elastase) able to increase the degradation of elastin, subtracting its peculiar elasticity. Together with the concentrations of elastin, those of collagen also decrease, which changes its structure becoming even less elastic and more fibrous.
Elastin and Aging
Elastin turnover is extremely low, with a half-life approaching the age of the organism. Our body synthesizes elastin throughout development, up to the age of about 20 years. During the aging process, the skin progressively loses its elasticity because the "damaged" elastin is not replaced, or it is replaced by non-functional fibers.
All these microstructural changes of the dermis become visible on the skin surface through the appearance of wrinkles with a decrease in the tone and elasticity of the past. Hence the need to adopt cosmetic and nutritional techniques to preserve the elastin from degradation and favor its synthesis.
Preserve the Elastin
There are several possible tools that can be used to promote the synthesis of elastin and reduce degradation as much as possible. These tools range from prevention to taking appropriate supplements, through the application of cosmetics rich in ingredients suitable for the purpose.
Prevention
As mentioned, prevention is one of the tools that can be used to preserve elastin from degradation.
In this regard, we recall that the first way to achieve this - albeit indirectly - is to protect oneself against UV rays that have been shown to activate metalloproteases that degrade dermis proteins after just a few minutes of exposure to the summer sun. In a skin marked by photoaging the elastin concentrations appear higher, but its structure is strongly altered, even on a functional level.
Aesthetic and cosmetic treatments
There are many aesthetic or cosmetic treatments that can be carried out to promote the production of new elastic fibers. These treatments and their main characteristics will be briefly described below.
Exfoliating agents
Promoting skin exfoliation by removing dead cells that tend to "cement" on the surface - thus promoting epidermal turnover and stimulating the formation of new cells - can increase the synthesis of collagen and elastin, improving the latter on the elastic plane. This explains the widespread use of chemical agents (alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, retinoic acid) or physical (mineral powders) in cosmetics with a mild and gentle exfoliating effect, or for exfoliating peeling more aggressive and dangerous, although potentially more effective.
In this regard, it should be remembered that, in order to avoid complications and serious side effects, the peelings - chemical or physical - must be performed only by specialized personnel working in suitable facilities. In the event that the type of peeling that you decide to perform exerts a very deep exfoliating action, the treatment must be performed only and exclusively by doctors specialized in this area.
Laser technology
Some laser treatments have also been shown to stimulate the dermal synthesis of collagen and elastin, increasing local heat and with it the metabolic activity of fibroblasts.
Antioxidants
The same result obtained with laser technologies can be achieved through the application of topical antioxidant mixtures, such as retinol and in general the A, C and E complex, some plant extracts (non-denatured soybean extracts, leaf extracts) of blackberry) and triterpene alcohols, substances widely used in cosmetic anti-age formulations, such as the ubiquitous Shea Butter or Avocado Oil. Even the intake of oral antioxidants could help protect elastin from damage caused by reactive oxygen species, better known as free radicals.
Oral Integration of Elastin
The oral supplementation of elastin, similar to that much in vogue with collagen, can enrich the pool of amino acids available to the body for the synthesis of elastin, mainly composed of glycine, valine, alanine and proline. However, beyond the cases in which there are specific deficiencies of these amino acids, it seems rather optimistic to think of stimulating the synthesis of elastin by taking the substance as such or in a hydrolysed orally (orally) form.
Elastin in Cosmetics
The addition of elastin in cosmetic products has no functional value, since its high molecular weight prevents it from being absorbed by the skin; for this reason, in preparations for cosmetic use the hydrolyzed form is usually used, and then decomposed into the small peptides that compose it.
The resulting protein derivative loses, however, every type of elasticizing property and the only ascertained effect seems to be that of moisturizing and protecting against the stratum corneum. Elastin enhances its action in synergy with hydrolyzed collagen and / or soluble collagen.
