Arso grain flour

The burnt wheat flour is a product obtained from the roasting of durum wheat ( Tritucum durum ), followed by grinding the seeds to reduce them to a coarse powder, called "burnt wheat flour".

To be honest, respecting the product definitions, this powder is NOT a real "flour", but a semolina (since it has a thicker grain and is not produced from soft wheat). However, in order not to over-complicate the subject, below we will continue the description using improperly the words "burnt wheat flour".

Birth of the burned wheat

Typically Pugliese (Foggia and north-Bari), burnt wheat was born from the need to recover the ears of wheat fallen to the ground and hidden by the vegetative portion of the plants following the harvest. This recovery, as can be deduced, is particularly difficult to perform with intact stubble; therefore, also by virtue of the fact that by burning the straw is encouraged the fertilization of the soil, the collection of burnt wheat was carried out only at the end of the combustion of the exploited fields. In this way, the farmers were able to source the seeds without having to buy a large "slice" of the crop (owned by the landowners and too expensive for their pockets), while being content with what the flames left on the ground. This wheat was then ground to obtain a typically whole flour.

Arso and Farina wheat: Today

Today, burnt gano is produced in a completely different way. In practice, the wheat is destined to a simple roasting, similar to the coffee roasting, which gives it hints of "cooked" and "smoked". This last discrepancy between the two wheats is, to say the least, essential, since the "original" burnt grain externally suffered a partial carbonization, even if for some authors the ears would be able to protect the grains to the point of leaving them totally intact. On the other hand, today's (controlled) roasting takes place with shelled seeds and guarantees a different activation of the Maillard reactions. It may seem paradoxical but, to hear what the experts say, the burnt wheat produced with modern technologies has a more intense aroma and taste and, when used pure, boasts a lower approval rating than the traditional one.

In today's age, the burned wheat (which we remember to be integral) is a niche food, sought after and very special; it is found with a certain difficulty and, more frequently, relying on suppliers of organic and traditional food. Available almost exclusively in the form of flour, it has a fairly high cost (obviously unjustified) and, even via the internet, can be purchased directly from the artisan mills that produce it. The cost is almost € 5 / kg.

Purposes and characteristics of the Arso wheat flour

Burnt wheat flour is useful for the formulation of alternative recipes. It is possible to use it in the production of pasta and bakery products, especially when mixed with raw wheat flour. This trick has not ONLY organoleptic and gustatory, but also chemical-physical bases.

As many readers will already know, the "key" to correct bread leavening and to keep the dough in baking is in the presence (and activation) of two particular peptides contained in some cereals (wheat, spelled, rye, etc.). Hydrating, these peptides combine and form an elastic lattice that traps the air in the bread, inflating the dough, while in the dough it protects the starch, regulating its gelatinization. We are talking about gliadin and glutenin peptides , which, in the presence of water, give rise to gluten . Burnt wheat flour, being wheat-based, contains both peptides but, after the heat treatment, a good part of these denatures and no longer performs its function properly. This does not exempt this flour from its "harmful" potential towards gluten intolerant people, that is celiacs, but it compromises in a decisive way the quality of the dough that is made from it.

In bread making, burnt wheat flour should never be present in quantities above 30%, where the remaining 70% is made from raw wheat flour. On the contrary, in the formulation of alimentary pasta, burnt wheat flour can also play a more important role, but this does not mean that the rheological properties of the food are different from the traditional ones. In fact, pasta with only burnt wheat flour absorbs more water during cooking, becoming more sticky and less consistent. In general, the pasta obtained with burnt wheat flour is fresh, not dried, and can be found mainly in the form of "cicatelli"; however, today there are also pasta with mixed contents that involve the use of wheat flour burnt in a mixture with the normal one. To obtain an alternative alimentary pasta with the same characteristics as the traditional one, it is recommended NOT to exceed 20% of burnt wheat flour, especially if you choose to compose a mixture with added eggs.

Tend, compared to traditional white flour, that of burnt wheat has a higher protein content (but it is not possible to establish its gluten index, for the reasons explained above), a greater content of ashes (mineral salts), a greater content of semi carbohydrates -fragmented, lower pH and less water.