In addition to jojoba liquid wax, other widely used oleaginous drugs are: peanut, coconut, olive, flax, corn oil, cocoa and shea butter, beeswax (of animal origin) and of carnauba (obtained from the leaves of plants belonging to the genus Copernicia).
An oil, after being extracted, is subjected to refining processes to respond to the many different market demands ; for example, a freshly extracted oil by squeezing can have exceptional antioxidant properties, but an extremely unpleasant smell (for example, the seeds of the female variant of Ginko are rich in butyric acid, responsible for their stink of rotten meat), which would compromise the its cosmetic use: from this arises the need for a rectification process.
- Deodorization process: aims to eliminate, or minimize, the bad or unwanted odor of a specific oil product; this is due to the presence of volatile compounds in the unsaponifiable portion or to the presence of low molecular weight fatty acids in the saponifiable component. Unfortunately, the deodorization, as well as all the other refining processes to which an oil product can be subjected, is not so selective as to remove only the negative agent. Deodorization is carried out with the aid of active carbons, to which volatile substances are bound, but also other molecules; consequently, a refined oil is a functionally less active oil than the oil obtained from simple pressing. We also say that the refining process is a fair compromise between the elimination of the undesirable component and the maintenance of the functional properties of the drug, although these are significantly reduced.
- Bleaching process : this also refers to the use of active carbons.
- Neutralization : process that aims to eliminate free fatty acids, thus reducing the acidity of the refined product. This process is carried out using alkalizing substances or buffers.
- Degumatura : it tends to eliminate the gums, intended as mixtures heteropolysaccharides; it is carried out by blowing steam at 120 ° C on the oil, obtaining the separation of the gums in the form of a precipitate.
All refining processes are drastic and non-selective processes; therefore, the final product, from the functional point of view, is less valid than the raw one, but more accessible by the consumer and the formulator.
