Generality
Pulsed light epilation is an aesthetic technique that allows the permanent removal of unwanted hair .
The principle of action is comparable to that of laser epilation, with the difference that the latter technology acts at unidirectional and monochromatic wavelengths.
Pulsed light epilation can be performed in certified beauty salons or in dermatological clinics; there are also devices to be used comfortably at home. Although the "do it yourself" is more convenient and economical, however, at least in the initial stages it is advisable to contact a specialist, in order to exclude any side effects and choose the most suitable treatment, based on the characteristics of the hair and skin.
What's this?
Pulsed light epilation is a more recent laser treatment. Both technologies are based on selective photothermolysis : the energy absorbed by a chromophore (in this case the melanin contained in dark-colored hair) turns into heat, overheating the hair and denature the structures that regenerate it (bulb, dermal papilla and matrix cells).
If the surgery is performed correctly, the skin around the follicle remains unaffected.
Pulsed light uses a broad-spectrum light source, ie with different wavelengths useful for hair removal, in the range of 590-1, 200 nanometers.
Peli: some information
- The hair is spread over the entire body surface, with the exception of the palms of the hands, soles of the feet, free margin of the lips and some areas of the genital area. Their characteristics (number, shape, length and type) may vary from person to person.
- From the anatomical point of view, in the hair there are two main parts: stem (evident on the outside of the skin plane) and root (contained in the hair follicle at the level of the epidermis). In the deepest part, the follicle swells to form the hair bulb, containing, in turn, the dermal papilla ; the latter structure consists of a group of cells in active proliferation which give rise to the hair (matrix).
- The hair is not produced continuously by the follicle, but follows a life cycle in which periods of activity alternate with those of rest: anagen (growth), catagen (transition) and telogen (rest).
What is it for?
The ultimate goal of pulsed light hair removal is to induce progressive thinning and thinning of hair, strongly slowing down hair growth and making it invisible to the naked eye.
For a better result, it is necessary to intervene on the desired area during the anagen phase of the hairs, since the melanin is much more concentrated in the hair bulb during this period.
The limit of pulsed light epilation is precisely correlated to the factors that influence the life cycle of the hair, which is born, grows and dies. The silent follicles, those that do not produce hair, can activate, in fact, under stimulation of hormones or drugs. For this reason, in the case of pulsed light, it is more correct to speak of permanent hair removal, as the result on the active follicles treated remains over time.
Who is it recommended for?
Epilation with pulsed light is particularly recommended for those who are tired or frequently resort to waxing, razors and various other hair removal methods. This technology can be applied to the face, underarms, arms, chest, legs, back and other parts of the body.
How does it work?
High intensity pulsed light (IPL) is a photoepilation technique that uses light radiations to weaken the hair and cause it to fall.
The principle on which it is based is that of selective photothermolysis . In practice, the intensified pulsed light, emitted during treatment, affects the hair bulbs, causing overheating of the follicle and the blood vessels that supply it; in this way, the vitality of the cells of the matrix responsible for the regeneration of the hair is compromised.
In order for the process to be selective towards unwanted hair and not to affect other tissues, it is necessary to use a pulsed light with wavelengths in the range 590-1200 nanometers . When the melanin contained in the bulbs absorbs the radiations, the energy contained in them is transferred to the bulb in the form of heat; this causes the reaching of high temperatures, which gradually cause the degradation of the follicle (thermolysis).
As treatments are performed, the hairs grow back less quickly (from 4 weeks to several months later) and are increasingly thinner.
Professional treatment
Pulsed light epilation can be performed at dermatological clinics or in certified beauty centers, by highly qualified personnel; in the latter case, it is advisable to inform your primary care physician that, being aware of the medical history, he can exclude the presence of contraindications.
The instrument power setting and treatment frequency depend on: characteristics of the hair (color, stem diameter and hair density), skin type, possible skin lesions and concomitant pathologies or use of photosensitizing drugs.
Whatever the chosen operator, pulsed light epilation sessions are carried out according to the following phases:
- Preliminary phase - The skin is carefully cleaned to remove dirt, make-up, perfumes, deodorants or any product that can interact with the laser (and could be mistaken for melanin). At the end of this operation, the area to be treated is shaved to guarantee the success of the session. If the hairs were longer than 2 mm, in fact, the power of the light beam would not act only on the bulb, that is the true target, but would disperse along the stem, reducing the effectiveness of the treatment.
- Epidermal test - The thermal reaction of the skin is evaluated: the operator sets the fluence (energy emitted per square centimeter) and makes the handpiece, fitted with a glass surface, stick to a small skin area; after about two minutes the result is observed and, based on it, the device settings are adjusted. This step should be done at the beginning of each session, as the skin conditions may vary. Before starting the test, always take the right precautions:
- wear the appropriate protective glasses and cover the snow on the affected area, to prevent them from being hit by radiation.
- Epilation phase - The operator carefully passes the device in the region to be treated. At the end, the skin is cleansed again and a refreshing gel is applied, able to soothe redness. Sometimes, before proceeding with epilation, the operator can apply an anesthetic cream for topical use in some particularly sensitive areas of the body.
Home pulsed light epilation
Pulsed light epilation can also be performed at home, with special devices available on the market. This type of treatment is indicated above all for maintaining the effects obtained with professional sessions.
The choice of the ideal appliance depends on several factors, including:
- Fluence : it is the quantity of energy emitted by the lamp per square centimeter. This parameter gives an idea of the power of the appliance: too low values make the treatment ineffective, very high values can damage the skin. The latest generation devices allow you to set various levels of fluency based on your skin type (from light to olive complexions).
- Area to be treated : some devices have precision accessories that allow you to treat even the smallest areas (eg underarms); others have a lamp with a wide window to work better on large areas. There are also tools that can be used all over the body, while others are specific to the face.
- Pulse frequency : the devices allow to emit single pulses (for areas that require greater precision) or continuous (for very large areas).
- Wavelength : the ability of radiation to reach the deepest bulbs depends on it; products that are not able to generate at least between 590 nm and 1200 nm cannot be considered of good quality.
- Total number of pulses : the lamp life depends on this parameter.
Duration of treatment
The results that can be obtained with pulsed light hair removal depend on a number of factors, including age, hormonal structure, skin type and hair characteristics. Therefore, the number of sessions varies according to the individual cases and the area to be treated.
In most "normotype" subjects (without hypertrichosis), results can be obtained within 8-10 sessions performed every 3-4 weeks, with an average reduction of 80% of the hairs present in the treatment area. After the first treatments, however, there is a thin and delayed regrowth, as well as a weakening of the hair and an improvement of the tissues, especially in the case of folliculitis and ingrown hairs.
The results obtained with pulsed light hair removal are lasting, especially if maintenance sessions are repeated once or twice a year.
How much can it cost?
The cost of pulsed light epilation varies depending on the machinery used and the area to be treated: from 30 to 250 euros per session for the smaller areas (including groin, mustache and armpits), while, for more parts extended (like legs and arms), costs can be between 80 and 500 euros. The final price depends on the total number of sessions established to obtain satisfactory results.
As for devices for domestic use, instead, the cost indicatively ranges from 180 to 1000 euros.
Advantages and disadvantages
Epilation with pulsed light has a number of advantages: it favors a reduction in the quantity and diameter of the hairs, as well as a slow, if not non-existent, regrowth thanks to the elimination of the hair bulb.
On the other hand, the initial economic investment is high and the treatment sessions require a lot of perseverance. Pulsed light hair removal is not effective on light hair and has some medical contraindications.
Compared to laser epilation, then, the pulsed light must be suspended during the summer to prevent photo-sensitization and the consequent appearance of skin spots.
Contraindications and adverse reactions
When performed by highly qualified personnel, the pulsed light proves to be quite safe. Common side effects include:
- Sensation of discomfort, mild heat or pain similar to a needle prick, especially in areas with high follicular density;
- Slight redness of the skin due to photothermolysis.
The latter reaction varies according to the degree of individual epidermal sensitivity; the redness is temporary and disappears after a few minutes.
Pulsed light hair removal sessions should be performed in winter or, in any case, in periods away from summer. The treatment predisposes, in fact, to the formation of cutaneous spots on the treated area, as a result of the damage of the melanin ( hypopigmentation on the tanned skin). Considering the risks of skin depigmentation, pulsed light epilation is not indicated for those with little contrast between hair and complexion (light hair on light skin; medium-dark hair on a dark complexion, etc.). In any case, it will be the specialized aesthetic or medical staff who will evaluate the possibility of performing the treatment. Always for the same reason, it is good to remember to do a little test on a small surface, not very exposed, to ascertain the effects of pulsed light on your skin type.
During the pulsed light epilation procedure, the aesthetic doctor (or the qualified beautician) and the patient must wear protective glasses, specific depending on the frequency of the pulsed light used, to reduce the eye risk on the retina.
Epilation under pulsed light is not indicated during oral therapies with corticosteroids, antibiotics, hormone replacement treatments, immunosuppressive drugs and other photosensitizers (such as isotretinoin for acne): the risk is to cause the onset of spots skin or produce only a temporary effect of hair loss.
Other contraindications to pulsed light epilation include:
- Male beard, as high follicular density could make the process very painful;
- Areas of extreme sensitivity, such as eyebrows and intimate areas;
- Tattoos and permanent make-up: although they can be covered before treatments, the pigments they contain can absorb radiation and cause burns;
- Skin disorders that could be worsened (eczema, dermatitis and wounds);
- Immune deficiency, heart disease and surgery in the three months prior to the session;
- Varicose veins, as the heat transferred by radiation can contribute to worsen the problem;
- Diabetes, due to the difficulty in healing the skin;
- Pregnancy and lactation, due to the lack of evidence concerning the safety of the treatment.
Some advice
- Pulsed light epilation ensures better results on dark-colored hair on a fair complexion. For blond, white or bleached hair, on the other hand, the hopes of success are reduced, if not nil.
- It is not advisable to epilate with tanned light tanned or dark skins (phototype V or VI), as they have large amounts of melanin: in this case, the heat tends to be absorbed by the skin and not by the hair, resulting in a very painful sensation during the sitting and sometimes real burns.
- It is advisable to avoid the use of waxing and other tear epilation techniques between sessions, which interrupt the hair growth cycle.
- If you have hirsutism and hypertrichosis secondary to hormonal dysfunctions, it is always better to ask your primary care physician for advice or contact a dermatologist before undergoing pulsed light hair removal. Even large nevi, skin spots or freckles should always be evaluated before treatment.
- Pulsed light epilation is contraindicated in summer : after treatment, the skin is particularly vulnerable to the effects of ultraviolet radiation and can react with an inflammation of the melanocytes. If you decide to do it in the spring months, it is better to limit yourself to the parts of the body that will not be exposed to the sun immediately, then groin or armpits, avoiding face, legs and arms.
- With pulsed light epilation we cannot speak of definitive results, as they are permanent . The treatment has the advantage of strongly slowing down the growth of hair and transforming it into a thin down, which is not visible to the naked eye, thus allowing to thin out waxing or other hair removal systems.
